Botargo is a Mediterranean culinary delicacy found in Italy, France, Maghreb countries, Spain, Greece and Croatia as well as in Africa, notably Mauritania, and Japan. The Botargo is made of the roe pouch of mullets, cured in salt, pressed and dried. In fact, the production of salt-cured fish goes back a long way in the Mediterranean and has maintained, all over the centuries, a vital role in the economy.

 

As for Provence, the Bortago has made it to the manuscripts since the sixteen century. Even earlier, the Bortago has been a part of the medieval era as documented in a contract concluded in 1193 between Montmajour Abbey and the fishermen of Arles. Over time, it has become a demanded specialty in Martigues. This southern community of Bouches-du-Rhône can be prided on being the French capital of Bortago or “Bourtague” as called in France and the Mediterranean. In his book Calendal of 1866, Frederic Mistral writes: “The mullet, cattle of the seas and treasures of the people of Martigues who process the roes and make the Bortago.”

 

Nowadays, Bortago is no longer made in Martigues, except for a handful of “calen “fishermen. “Calen” is a word derived from the local vocabulary that means altogether the net, the mode of fishing and the cottage situated on the shoreline of the Canal de Caronte. In this area that links the Etang de Berre to the Mediterranean, the net is thrown out from the banks of the canal several times per day during the fishing season that extends from July till August. Two fishermen perched on a boat strive to capture fishes. The most delicate procedure is that of pulling the female egg sacs without perforating them. Afterwards, the eggs are washed, salted, pressed and dried for a period of two weeks within cages covered with mosquito nets.

 

Bortago has been accustomed differently with each country. In Provence it is served as it is, while it is grated over pasta in Italy and mashed and seasoned with oil in Greece. Bortago is a delicacy that did not bother Grandgousier of Rabelais, since his house was full of bortagos.

 

-Martin-Villevieille Simone, History of Provence recipes, 10 centuries of gourmet tradition « Histoire des recettes de Provence. 10 siècles de tradition gourmande », Jeanne Laffitte, 2000.

-TOUSSAINT-SAMAT Maguelonne, Ethno-cuisine of Provence « Ethnocuisine de Provence », Alain Schrotter Editeur, 1982.